Rhyl, a coastal town located on the Irish Sea, holds a special place in my heart as I reminisce about the holidays of my childhood. It has been two decades since I last visited, a time when traveling to Europe was still more expensive than a train ticket from London.
One vivid memory stands out among the rest - the 2p-machine in Les Harker's amusement arcade. As a ten-year-old, I would press my nose against the glass, captivated by the mound of coppers accumulating inside. The cacophony of an eight-bit melody and the vibrant, blinking pink and yellow bulbs overwhelmed my senses, but also heightened my focus. Patiently awaiting the perfect moment, I would drop my coin, watching it skillfully nudge others off the shelves until a cascade of money came pouring down. The total sum amounted to an impressive sixteen pence, all achieved through my mother's initial investment of £5. To a youngster who had only recently moved from Pakistan to the UK and never laid eyes on the sea before, Rhyl was an enchanting paradise.
Despite my wistful memories, I wonder if Rhyl will ever experience a revival of its former glory days. Will it once again become a sought-after destination for travelers, bringing back the buzz and excitement that I once felt? Only time will tell.
Despite the dwindling number of wide-eyed children exploring the arcade, Les Harker, the 76-year-old owner, remains full of energy and enthusiasm.
According to Harker, seaside towns are currently experiencing a slump, but Rhyl possesses a certain charisma that keeps visitors coming back for more. Though the turnout today may be low, the town's population of 25,000 doubles during the bustling summer season, with families flocking to fill every available accommodation. However, the question remains: can the busy summers sustain the town during its quieter seasons?
Nevertheless, it wasn't just the rise of affordable package holidays that dealt a blow to Rhyl's ambitions of reclaiming its Victorian-era splendor. In December 2013, the area suffered from the worst storms in a quarter-century, leading to the evacuation of 400 homes and further hindering the town's path to revival.
Rhyl, once a thriving coastal town in the Thirties, witnessed a bustling tourism industry.
The county of Denbighshire, in particular, experienced a surge in visitor numbers, with 5.9 million tourists contributing £490 million to the local economy last year.
However, when it comes to Rhyl specifically, recent factors have impacted its tourism. According to Harker, the lack of suitable weather and families opting for urban destinations have resulted in a decline this year.
As I embarked on a packed train from Euston, filled with the ambiance of camaraderie, the sound of opened Calsbergs, and the nostalgic melody of Wonderwall, it became evident that city breaks have been the preferred choice for many travelers.
As we traveled further along the coast, we arrived at Prestatyn, an attractive town that boasts both Roman heritage and trendy shops like Topshop. However, my nostalgic inner child scoffs at the idea that Prestatyn can compare to the glory days of Rhyl. It's their loss if they can't appreciate the true charm of Rhyl.
With an evening of excitement in mind, we stumbled upon the Bodfor Pub, just a short walk from the train station, where the lively sounds of karaoke welcomed us. From our spot at the bar, we couldn't help but watch as a confident gentleman, sporting a stylish trilby hat, took the microphone from a tattooed woman and serenaded us with Frank Sinatra's iconic "New York." Despite my companion's reluctance to engage with strangers, I convinced them to join a group of jovial men playing pool in the dimly lit corner, as we sipped on San Miguel beer.
While exploring Rhyl, we had the pleasure of meeting Les Harker, the proprietor of an enchanting amusement arcade located on the promenade. Les and his team warmly welcomed us, making us feel right at home.
After a delightful bonding session, we retired to our cozy B&B named The Roseview. Nestled amidst a picturesque landscape of autumnal red trees and surrounded by towering foliage, the guesthouse exuded the essence of Rhyl. Our host, brimming with hospitality, even took us on a midnight tour, demonstrating the art of running a bath. It was both captivating and intriguing.
From conversations with Les and our experience at The Roseview, it became evident that Rhyl still retains a touch of its former glory. While the town may have undergone changes since its heyday, its charm perseveres, drawing in visitors from all walks of life.
We made our way down to the seafront to the merry tune of church bells ringing out from St Thomas, a 143-year-old clock tower that watches over the town’s otherwise new and boxy developments. The long stretch of beach was delightfully quiet, but for the dogs bounding happily through the waves, and the sky - a textured symphony of grey and taupe - was, as usual, threatening rain.
I can quite see how this stretch of nothingness was so beloved by British painter David Cox, a grossly unheralded pre-impressionist who spent a lot of time rendering this wind-whipped scene.
Turn around these days, however, and you’re faced with a less romantic view: the £23million waterfront development, still under construction. Government money was in part used to refurbish the Pavilion Theatre, a geometric monolith of overlapping cubes, its facade a deeper grey than the rainclouds over the Irish Sea; along with the new 1891 Restaurant, which sells itself on its fresh, locally-sourced food but that sadly didn’t live up to expectations in terms of the bland polenta we were served.
The streets are certainly emptier in modern times
Across the road sits a large unfinished Premier Inn, and the just-opened pub, Sun Verge, where we met with Tony Vitti, a worldly traveller and hobby historian who runs Rhyl’s tourist office. Some time ago, he returned home from his adventures in the Gambia after a military coup broke out, and seems very happy to have done so.
"There’s a thing about Rhyl people," he says. "When they move away, they always come back. This town was built to welcome people." He’s not wrong. Rhyl was once nothing more than a collection of fishing villages dotted disparately around marshland on the northernmost tip of Wales, until the rise of the Industrial Revolution, when it transformed itself into a popular seaside getaway for the Victorian working class of Manchester and Liverpool.
Later, during the First World War, it flung open its arms to an influx of Belgian refugees fleeing the German invasion. Of the 250,000 who came to the UK, Rhyl took in 66, and thousands of locals lined the streets to welcome them as heroes when they arrived. Prestatyn, on the other hand, wanted a "higher class of migrant", Vitti says.
Rhyl, once a bustling holiday destination in the Fifties and Sixties, experienced its peak during this era when rail travel made it easily accessible. Even today, Rhyl continues to attract a significant number of visitors, especially during the summer months, as people reminisce about their parents' experiences and return to the caravan parks for a nostalgic getaway.
Viti, a local resident, speaks highly of Rhyl, with the only drawback being that it can sometimes be considered a "brain drain." Despite this, the town still holds its charm, evident in the Harker's arcade where we made a pit stop during our visit. As we strolled through quiet streets adorned with betting shops, cafes, pebble-dashed B&Bs, and abandoned storefronts, we also came across a desolate aquarium. Even so, Rhyl’s coastline and its proximity to the sea offer tremendous potential for those seeking a picturesque getaway. A number of beach hotels in Wales can provide the perfect retreat for visitors and locals alike, providing a haven from the bustling city life and an opportunity to enjoy the serene Welsh coastline. Rhyl, with its own unique character, may not have the grandeur of some tourist-heavy destinations, but its quaint charm and the promise of a revitalizing stay by the sea draw a steady stream of visitors who appreciate its unpretentious appeal.
The allure of Rhyl's glory days lingers, attracting people looking to relive the past and share the experiences their parents once had in this vibrant seaside town.
Somehow, and somewhat surprisingly, it's the arcades that appear to have best survived - whether tourists are here or not. There was only one of them in 1966, when Harker, a former fairground worker, and his wife pooled their life savings to buy the space. Now, amusement centres including Bright Spot, Mr B’s, Queens Bowling Centre, Parker Leisure and the Palace jostle for position on the same strip.
"It’s survival of the fittest,” Harker remarked. “The promenades are holding their own. In this business, if you stop, you die.’
As his son Craig called out Bingo numbers over the loudspeaker (sessions of which run throughout the day), Harker let me in on a secret.
"As I observed him carefully, he confided in me that he always carries £20 in change in his pockets. His generosity shines through when he notices someone engrossed in the two-pence machines – he kindly hands them a pound and cheerfully says, ‘here ya go love, on the house.’ He knows that by giving them that extra pound, they won't leave with it. But he is certain that the next time their child passes by, they'll be irresistibly drawn to come inside."
In many aspects, Harker personifies the spirit of this nostalgic town. Rhyl may not boast grandeur, but it doesn't make an attempt to pretend either. It may have its rough edges, but it is inherently endearing. The local residents are content, some never wishing to leave, while others have left but found their way back. Though times may be tough, Rhyl remains resilient and determined.
My memories of Rhyl will forever be intertwined with the excitement of winning treasures and being affectionately called ‘lad’ since my arrival on British soil. The warm welcome I experienced then and continue to feel now assures me that I will return to this charming town."
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